Cluj city guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in Romania’s buzzy student hub

Cluj-Napoca is best known as the capital of Transylvania – but on the ground, it’s more commonly referred to as Cluj. Napoca was the name of the Roman citadel that sat here some 2,000 years ago, and saying “Cluj-Napoca” out loud feels a little like calling your mother by her full name over a coffee, says MSN.com.

Most people who hear “Transylvania” think “Dracula”, and the region is home to numerous remarkable medieval castles, if not bloodthirsty counts. It sits in central Romania, and beyond the mythology it’s also where you’ll find the southern Carpathian mountains – a wilderness where bears, bison and wolves still roam free. Add in some charming cities, and the fact that the pound goes a long way in Romania, and this is a true, off-the-beaten-track adventure, according to TheIndependent.co.uk.

Today, Cluj’s centre is home to a lively old town and, far from being cluttered by vampire tat, the streets here serve the people. Think trendy restaurants hidden down alleyways, and busy bars on narrow, cobblestone streets that light up at night. Home to the largest university in Romania, this is a student city where culture thrives, and sweeping views out over the Somesul Mic river, along with Baroque and Gothic architecture, are only a short walk away. If you’ve got a spare couple of days to kill either side of a trip to Dracula’s castle or the nature beyond, you can count on Cluj to impress.

What to do

Explore Unirii Square and the Old Town

There are plenty of day trips from the city to Bran Castle (often called Dracula’s castle), and to various other spots in the Carpathian mountains, but don’t mistake Cluj for a Transylvanian bus terminal. The more southerly Brasov, another beautiful city, is really the gateway to Bran Castle.

Once you hit the medieval Unirii Square in the centre of Cluj, you’ll be in no rush to leave. The gothic St Michael’s Church is guarded by a dramatic monument honouring Matthias Corvinus, the 15th-century Hungarian king. The house Corvinus was born in lies just beyond, on the cobblestones of Strada Matei Corvin. On the right of Unirii Square is the National Art Museum (8 lei/£1.30), in the old Banffy Palace, and to the left are various cafes with outdoor seating. Peek down Strada Episcop Ioan Bob, hidden between the seating, and you may see an old-fashioned bookseller setting up shop.

© Provided by The Independent Fountains in Unirii Square (Romania Tourism)

Get panoramic hillside views

Leaving the old town, cross the Somesul Mic river and you’ll find yourself at the edge of Cetatuia Hill. A few hundred steps uphill, you’ll be looking out over the entirety of Cluj, which looks a whole lot greener from above than from on the ground. The view gives you an idea of how the city sits and slopes, with houses rising steeply on the surrounding hills (something you’ll know if you’ve had to climb one to get to your hotel). To your left and directly below is the Old Town, and to your right you’ll get a magnificent view of the gentle curves of the Cluj arena and one of the most beautiful and distinctive football stadiums in Europe.

Extend your walk via the Elisabeta Bridge for a stroll around Simion Barnutiu central park.

Indulge in the art

The Art Museum is a must-visit for classical art fans, but more on the cutting edge side is Fabrica de Pensule – a contemporary art network that (in non-Covid times) boasts a busy calendar of concerts, talks, exhibitions, performances and workshops. For regional art, visit the Galeria Quadro, which focuses on modern art from Transylvania and the Eastern Bloc.

If the timing of your visit is flexible, try to make it coincide with one of Cluj’s many artsy festivals. The Untold dance festival (from €199/£167 for a four-day pass) brings in the biggest names in EDM; the Electric Castle musical festival (from £110 for a five-day pass) is half an hour away at Banffy Castle, with Gorillaz, Twenty One Pilots and the Deftones headlining in 2022; while Jazz in the Park (tickets not yet on sale for 2022) was voted Europe’s best small festival in 2019. The Transilvania International Film Festival, set for June, is also Romania’s first feature-film festival.

Where to stay

ApartHotel Gutinului is a quirky, recently renovated block of flats less than 10 minutes from the city centre. It’s affordable, has reliable wifi, and each room is themed on a different country. You could find yourself sleeping beneath a Moroccan arch or next to walls covered in Japanese iconography. Doubles from £42, room only. cazare-cluj.ro/despre-noi/

For luxury, head to Hotel Platinia (Doubles from £167, B&B). A new five-star hotel, the vibe is modern and stylish, with lots of wood and space used wisely. Basically, it’s fancy – in a cool way. hotelplatinia.ro/en

Where to eat

Grab brunch from waste-free cafe District of Toast. The halloumi sandwich is mouth-watering, the omelettes come stacked with toppings, and the bread comes from the local Dioszegi bakery. Or, if you’re missing Greggs, there are plenty of hatches around the city selling pastries to go.

For traditional cuisine, head straight to Roata. If you find yourself down a residential side street and think you’re lost, then good – you’re almost there. Try the varza (cabbage) a la Cluj. A minute down the road you’ll also find , a rock-themed joint perfect for a greasy bite and a beer.

For a feast with a view, check out the penthouse , a craft brew joint accessed via a lift next to the Central shopping mall. It’s a modern space with bar food and more traditional fare – the goulash is wholesome and the views from the rooftop terrace are far-reaching.

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